Whitening Skin Care Ingredients (Part 1) flawlesseternalbeauty

Whitening Skin Care Ingredients (Part 1)

With skin whitening having unintentionally become the go-to beauty norm, it can be hard to determine whether the products claiming to produce results within X days or permanently are in fact using the correct ingredients.

Asian women are often encouraged to strive for a complexion that is as pale and porcelain-like as possible. To achieve this, they may go to extreme lengths to prevent sun exposure and instead use creams and masks, don gloves, or receive professional peels or medical treatments. Whitening products, also known as bleaching creams and bleaching products, do this by reducing the melanin pigment in the skin, lightening the complexion.

The amount of melanin in a person's body affects the hue of their hair, eyes, and skin; generally, higher melanin levels lead to a deeper complexion. Tyrosinase is an enzyme responsible for controlling the production rate of this substance. Skin lightening cosmetics are frequently utilized to diminish age spots, acne scars, and any discoloration resulting from hormones.

Here are some common ingredients found in whitening cosmetics and some tips to help us achieve lighter skin naturally.

1) Hydroquinone (HQ)

Combining hydroquinone (HQ) with steroid creams or tretinoin is more effective for lightening skin compared to using HQ alone, however it is recommended to gain prior approval from the Health Sciences Authority (HSA) as HQ can cause side effects and be considered unsafe.

2) Retinoids

Retinoids are a group of compounds derived from vitamin A that are believed to be vital for maintaining skin health and immunity. They are available in both natural and synthetic varieties, and come in various forms such as retinol, retinal and retinyl esters.

It can be found in mild formulations that can be bought over-the-counter to treat acne or reduce the visible signs of aging, or in stronger forms that require a doctor's prescription. Stronger retinoids are mainly used to treat more severe forms of chronic skin conditions like psoriasis. Retinoids can help reduce inflammation and lead to smoother, better looking skin.

Combination treatments, such as creams and gels containing retinoids, hydrocortisone and tretinoin, have been found to be especially effective in treating acne, pigmentation and photoaging.

Tretinoin in particular helps to speed up skin regeneration and disperse pigment granules.

Indications and Effects

Complex mechanisms of action are employed by drugs to achieve their desired effects. These mechanisms include:

- Inhibition of inflammation.
- Increased production of procollagen, a precursor of collagen.
- Opening of clogged pores.
- Cell proliferation and regulation.
- Delays skin aging caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Application

Retinoids are commonly used in cosmetology and dermatological therapy as a method of treating mild to moderate acne. They work by opening the skin's pores, allowing topical antibiotics to penetrate and eradicate acne-causing bacteria. Besides being a potent acne remedy, retinoids may reduce wrinkles, inflammation, and other signs of aging due to increased production of procollagen. Inflammation and the increased rate of skin cell production associated with psoriasis can also be alleviated with retinoids.

Additionally, they have a hand in controlling pigment-producing cells which allows them to reduce symptoms of melasma and actinic lentigines - small, pigmented spots commonly seen on arms and hands. According to the American Cancer Society's Trusted Source, retinoids limit the chances of developing certain skin cancer types, such as Kaposi's sarcoma and cutaneous T-cell lymphoma.

However, as oral retinoids could cause birth defects, doctors only prescribe them to those at high risk. Lastly, retinoids are one of the treatments that can reduce the inflammation and irritability that can occur after hair removal.

Side effects:

When using retinoids to treat certain conditions, caution is highly recommended, particularly for those with skin allergies, dryness or sensitivity; these products may irritate the skin. It is best to consult a dermatologist before using any product containing retinoids. Irritation of the skin as an effect of topical retinoid is usually caused by prolonged and large doses. Common signs of irritation include redness, intense dryness, scaling, and itching.

Rarely, other side effects occur such as acne, higher skin propensity to sun sensitivity, discoloration, eczema, and swelling of the skin. This only happens in less than 10% of people.

Pregnant people or those intending to become pregnant should abstain from using oral retinoids, as the most concerning side effect associated with them is the potential for birth defects. To lessen the risk, a period of two months to three years is necessary prior to conception, after taking the oral retinoid, pending the type involved. Additionally, people utilizing oral retinoids should refrain from taking blood tests.

Taking oral retinoids may lead to potentially debilitating side effects such as mental disorders, muscle, joint and bone pain, headaches, decreased night vision, abdominal pain, nausea, and diarrhea.

Those taking acitretin (Soriatan) for psoriasis may experience worse symptoms initially and may also have increased cholesterol levels, bumpy nails, and skin burning.

Directions for use.

For over-the-counter retinoids, it is essential to follow the directions on the package. If you are using a prescription retinoid, make sure to follow your doctor's instructions. The application of a thin layer of cream or lotion to the affected skin should be done only once a day when using a prescription retinoid. For best results, it is recommended to apply the cream at night to minimize exposure to sunlight.

In order to get the best results, individuals should ensure that the skin properly absorbs the product, use only the amount recommended, and use the product as directed for the prescribed time.

To use topical retinoids for acne treatment, start by applying a thin layer–approximately the size of a pea–every other day for the first 2-4 weeks. After the initial phase, rinse the product off your skin after 30-60 minutes. Finish by using a gentle, non-clogging moisturizer.
As for oral retinoids, you should follow your doctor's recommendations on how and when to take them. For example, it is recommended to take acitretin once a day with milk after the main meal. Drinking milk is important because the body needs fat for optimal absorption of the medication.

3) Retinol

Retinol is a form of retinoid, which is a type of vitamin A-based medication that is commonly known as vitamin A1. In recent times, retinol has become hugely popular among skin care products for its capacity to promote a healthy aging process and improve skin tone and level of acne. Retinol is available in the form of serums, gels, creams, and moisturizers, which can be applied topically to promote a range of skin benefits.

As specified by the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), retinol up to 2% is available over the counter while stronger varieties may necessitate a prescription.

Retinol is a popular choice when it comes to topical application of skin care products. It is capable of penetrating the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum, and also the deeper layer of skin called the dermis. According to a research review conducted by Reliable Source, retinol is converted to retinoic acid when applied to the skin, which helps to promote cell regeneration and prevent collagen breakdown, a protein that aids in providing skin elasticity.

Application:

Retinol is widely used due to its ability to permeate the stratum corneum and dermis of the skin, and is an effective treatment for acne, a common chronic skin condition in which blocked skin follicles are affected by dead skin cells, oil glands, and bacteria which can lead to inflammation.

Systematic review has found that topical retinoids, such as retinol, reduce abnormal skin flaking which is a key part of acne. People suffering from severe acne may need a stronger retinoid than retinol, such as isotretinoin, which will require a prescription from a dermatologist.

Retinol is also used in skin aging, as it has been found to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin as well as blocking molecules that produce inflammation. It is important to take into account external factors such as UV radiation, smoking and pollution when fighting skin aging.


The AAL states that age spots can manifest on skin exposed to UV rays. The application of topical retinol with a concentration of 0.4% reveals improved epidermal thickness and blood flow in the affected areas. Moreover, retinol stimulates collagen and elastin production as well as hinders water loss from the skin, giving it a youthful look. After 8 weeks of treatment, retinol visibly decreased facial wrinkles around the eyes and neck.

A small study compared the effects of retinol and retinoic acid and it was determined that retinol was less effective but it did increase epidermal thickness and collagen expression. Analysis of facial images also demonstrated a significant reduction of expression lines after the participants implemented a retinol regime for at least 12 weeks. Retinol can even out the texture and tone of the skin as a result of its stimulation of collagen production as well as its influence on skin cell regeneration.

Moreover, it can make skin brighter and more luminous, which helps diminish the presence of wrinkles and further smoothens out the tone and texture of the skin. For individuals who used a serum containing 0.3% or 0.5% of retinol for 8 weeks, pigmentation and irregularities were minimized. Though, it was stated that those who used the 0.5% serum displayed a higher tendency of displaying symptoms.

An examination on individuals with darker skin, who were given a 3% retinol peel showed meaningful progress in terms of skin pigmentation and tone. The results point towards the fact that this type of treatment can be applied to all skin types without compromising safety.

The American Academy of Dermatology advised caution when using retinol, particularly on dark-skinned individuals, as this may cause inflammation and pigmentation issues.

Retinol use provides many advantages, such as the treatment of keratosis pilaris, a skin condition characterized by rough and bumpy patches. Research has also discovered that it is capable of reinforcing the epidermis and protecting the skin from the adverse effects of external factors, like air pollution. Additionally, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) has reported that retinol can greatly reduce the visibility of acne scars, as well as shrink the size of pores.

Long-term use or excessively high concentrations of retinol may lead to negative side effects such as: skin dryness, redness, itching, and peeling.

After using retinol, you may be prone to less common side effects including discoloration, sensitivity to sun, acne breakouts, swelling, and tingling or blistering of the skin. To prevent sunburn, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends wearing sunscreen and protective clothing after every application.

4) Arbutin

Arbutin is a powerful active ingredient found in the leaves of plants like cranberry, bilberry, and bearberry. It works by interfering with the production of melanin in the skin, blocking the activity of tyrosinase – an enzyme essential for the production of melanin – and halting the maturation of melanosomes.

Those seeking ways to make skin brighter, even out skin tone, and reduce the appearance of discoloration may be interested in this natural solution. Arbutin is well-known for its brightening capabilities, and it can be found in its most concentrated form derived from hydroquinone, a topical bleaching agent. It can also be reproducibly synthesized in the laboratory or extracted directly from certain plants of the azalea family.

Effects of Arbutin on the skin

Arbutin is a substance that works to even out, brighten, and lighten the tone of skin, dark spots and scars. It functions by interacting with melanin, the pigment that is naturally produced by the skin. Excessive melanin production can then result in dark patches on the skin (hyperpigmentation), which can be attributed to sun exposure, pregnancy and some medications.

Contrary to this, arbutin works by inhibiting the melanin pathway, which is the complex process responsible for the creating of pigment. It does not only stop the activity of tyrosinase (an enzyme involved in melanogenesis), but studies have also suggested its whitening effect is likely to have something to do with its antioxidant properties, which protect the skin from oxidative stress.

In conclusion, arbutin has been shown to be more effective in reducing age spots than any other tested alternatives.

Comparison of α-arbutin and β-arbutin.

When reading through skin care product labels, you'll notice some products containing α-arbutin or deoxy-arbutin and some using β-arbutin. The first two forms are synthetic, while β-arbutin is sourced from plants. All arbutin forms impede melanin production, yet α-arbutin has the upper hand in this regard. It is believed to be ten times more efficient than β-arbutin - an estimation backed up by one academic research.

Arbutin and other skin-lightening ingredients.

In comparison to arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid and vitamin C are all known to have skin lightening qualities. However, they each have their own effects and should be considered when treating skin. Hydroquinone is a typical whitening agent however, it is banned in certain countries and can cause irritation, tingling, contact dermatitis and skin discoloration.

Arbutin is different in the sense that it slowly releases hydroquinone, meaning that the skin is not exposed to large amounts of the chemical. Similarly, kojic acid is a bleaching agent and although arbutin has a more stable effect, it is generally thought to be less effective than kojic acid. Nevertheless, both ingredients can be used together.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant and when combined with arbutin, it boosts the effects of both ingredients and brightens the skin.

Side effects of arbutin:

Arbutin is a popular skin lightener known for being gentler and less irritating than other bleaching agents, making it a great choice for people with sensitive skin. While it typically does not cause issues for those with normal skin, those with skin conditions such as acne or rosacea should talk to their physician before using a product with arbutin. Possible side effects of arbutin use may include dermatitis, contact dermatitis, redness, itching, dryness, blistering and rashes [[1](https://browsandbody.com/arbutin/)].

People who notice any of these symptoms should immediately discontinue use of the product [[2](https://bodycarre.com/arbutin-what-is-it-benefits-and-side-effects/)].

It is important to note that high doses of arbutin or using the product for a long period of time can lead to toxicity from hydroquinone [[3](https://www.verywellhealth.com/uva-ursi-health-benefits-4582831)].

Using Arbutin in skincare?

Arbutin is a safe ingredient to use in face creams at concentrations of up to 2%, and in body lotions at up to 0.5%. Hydroquinone, however, is prohibited for use in cosmetic products at concentrations above 1% in many countries such as the European Union, Japan, Australia, and some African countries.

Together with arbutin, reparative ingredients such as retinol can also be used in lightening treatments. Since there are no known interactions between arbutin and other ingredients, once or twice a day application to the entire face could be recommended, or apply it as a spot treatment to specific areas.

It is suggested to give arbutin two to three months before evaluating results before consulting a licensed dermatologist for the perfect routine that suits individual skin concerns.

5) Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a natural dicarboxylic acid that can be isolated from the lipophilic yeast Pityrosporum ovale. It has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and skin-clearing properties, allowing it to be effective at treating skin conditions such as acne and rosacea. It can be found in cereals such as barley, wheat, and rye and is accessible in gel, cream, and foam form with the two most prominent brands being Azelex and Finacea.
Physicians typically prescribe products containing at least 15% azelaic acid whereas some over-the-counter products contain much less. However, due to the amount of time required for azelaic acid to take effect, many dermatologists do not use it as their first-choice in treating acne. Lastly, azelaic acid can have side-effects like burning, dryness, and flaking of the skin.

Azelaic acid has many beneficial properties for the skin, including reducing inflammation, bringing an even skin tone, and killing acne-causing bacteria. The acid has a soothing effect on the skin and helps to neutralize free radicals that can cause inflammation. In addition, azelaic acid inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which can darken the skin, making it ideal for treating acne scars and melasma. Furthermore, its bacteriostatic and bactericidal properties limit the production and kill Propionibacterium bacteria, which is integral to the occurrence of acne.

Azelaic Acid for Acne and Acne Scars:

Azelaic acid is available in different formulations such as creams, gels, and foams. It works to reduce breakouts, redness, rashes and inflammation by eliminating irritation-causing bacteria, aiding skin healing and encouraging the regeneration of skin cells. The instructions to use the acid in any form is the same. People also use it in treating acne scars. The acid boosts the cell regeneration process, reduces the severity of scars, and blocks the creation of pigmented cells that bring a change in skin color. If you have used various treatments to cure blemishes or scars and had very little success, azelaic acid may do the trick.

How to Use:
Begin by washing the affected area with lukewarm water and then drying it with a cloth. Then, use a mild detergent or soap to clean the area. Ensure you wash your hands prior to applying the medication. Take a small amount of the medication and massage it into the skin, allowing it to dry completely before applying any cosmetics. Depending on the doctor's instructions, you may need to use it twice a day; however, it is not necessary to cover or bandage the skin.

Precaution: Astringent or deep cleansing products should not be used during the application of azelaic acid.

Azelaic acid has many uses in skincare, such as treating pigmentation, rosacea, and discoloration. It has the power to stop the multiplication of skin cells that have been discolored, as well as reduce acne-related pigmentation. Furthermore, azelaic acid can lighten skin that has been discolored due to melanin. Besides, azelaic acid has been proven to be an effective treatment for rosacea because it reduces inflammation and improves the appearance of blood vessels caused by the condition.

Azelaic acid may cause the following side effects

Side effects from azelaic acid can include burning, tingling, and peeling of the skin at the site of application, along with dryness, redness, and blisters. Additionally, joint tightness, pain, hives, itching, fever, and difficulty breathing may also occur. Moreover, using azelaic acid can cause the skin to become thinner, making it more sensitive and prone to damage when exposed to sun, so using sun protection with SPF is important. If any of these unwanted effects occur, discontinue use and contact a medical professional immediately.

Why is azelaic acid prescribed?

Azelaic acid gel and foam are both utilized to help diminish any skin dysfunctions, rashes, and swelling caused by rosacea. Additionally, azelaic acid cream is used to treat acne and acne-related puffiness. Azelaic acid is a part of a group of medications in the dicarboxylic acid family. When used to treat rosacea, azelaic acid efficiently combats redness and inflammation. Through the killing of bacteria that cause acne and its ability to reduce keratin production, azelaic acid also helps to limit the development of acne.

How is this medicine used?

- It is important to ensure that azelaic acid does not get into your eyes or mouth. Should this occur, flush your eyes immediately with ample water and seek help from a medical professional if there is any irritation.
- Azelaic acid foam is a highly flammable substance so you should keep away from open flames or bonfires, and do not smoke while using the foam or for a short period after.
- When applying gels, foams or creams, wash the affected area of skin with a mild soap or soap-free cleanser, and pat it dry with a soft towel. - Avoid using cleansers containing alcohol, dyes, abrasive substances, astringents, and exfoliating ingredients, especially if you have rosacea, and ask your physician for a recommended cleanser. Then thoroughly shake the azelaic acid foam before use, before applying a thin layer of gel, foam or cream to the affected area and lightly massaging it in.
- Make sure not to cover the area with bandages, plasters or any other sort of cloth. Leave the foam to dry before reapplying any makeup, and be sure to wash your hands afterwards.

Before using azelaic acid:

If you are considering the use of azelaic acid, please inform your doctor and pharmacist of any allergies you have to azelaic acid or any other prescription or non-prescription/herbal medications, vitamins, supplements, or herbal products. Additionally, make sure to let your doctor know if you have, or have had in the past, asthma or recurrent forest fire attacks.

If you plan to become pregnant or are already pregnant, please be sure to tell your doctor. Also, be aware that if you are dark-skinned, azelaic acid may cause skin discoloration. If you notice any changes in your skin color, speak to your doctor right away.

Finally, keep all medicines, including azelaic acid, out of the reach of young children. Ensure that protective caps are securely fastened after each use and store in a safe place (high and out of reach).

6) Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is a water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is derived from sugar cane. It is one of the most popular AHAs used in skincare products. Alpha hydroxy acids are naturally occurring acids that are composed of small molecules that can easily penetrate the skin, making them incredibly effective for anti-aging, reducing the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles, and improving skin texture. Low concentrations of glycolic acid can actually help to rid the skin of pigmented cells and 30-70% of it can enable other bleaching elements, such as hydroquinone, to penetrate deeper.

How does glycolic acid work?

Glycolic acid, due to its small molecular structure, enters the skin easily and optimizes exfoliation compared to other AHAs. Furthermore, it activates cell renewal and breaks down the bonds connecting dead cells, allowing them to shed at a faster rate.

As we age, collagen production in the skin decreases while exposure to the sun hinders collagen production further. Fortunately, regular applications of glycolic acid can help prevent these collagen degrading processes as it is a major component of the protein that gives body to the skin, making it firm, smooth and elastic.

Glycolic acid is very popular for the following reasons:

Glycolic acid has become very popular in recent years due to its ability to help with anti-aging, moisturizing, preventing sun damage, and brightening the complexion. It can also help to gently exfoliate the skin, unclog pores and reduce the appearance of acne. Unfortunately, glycolic acid does not have the power to erase scars, though it can be useful in lightening dark spots from acne or other scars and making raised and deep scars less noticeable. Physician-administered glycolic acid peels or other professional treatments are typically more effective at treating scars.

If looking for a skin care treatment with glycolic acid, there are many product options for you. Glycolic acid is available in numerous over-the-counter cleansers, masks, toners and moisturizers - with concentrations of up to 10% - found at most drugstores, markets or spas. For stronger glycolic acid percentages, chemical peels are available at salons and spas ranging from 30-70% concentrations while the most potent peels can be provided by a dermatologist.

While store-bought sugar can be gently rubbed on the face to exfoliate and soften the skin, the effects of glycolic acid will be much more powerful. Glycolic acid is extracted from sugar cane, although it is not the same as what is found in stores.

Choosing the Glycolic Acid treatment for your skin:

When choosing a glycolic acid product, the type of skin and desired outcomes should be taken into account. Over-the-counter products that contain glycolic acid can help to create a healthier, brighter complexion, as well as prevent breakouts and reduce the visibility of small lines and wrinkles without the need for professional peels. Professional peels, however, can be a good choice for tackling specific skin issues, such as sunburns, brown spots, acne or deep wrinkles, for better and faster results. However, professional peels are more likely to cause irritation since they have a higher level of glycolic acid.

The percentage of glycolic acid doesn't tell the whole story, though; the product's pH is also a factor to consider, as lower pH levels are linked to more potent and helpful effects. Additionally, sun protection is necessary when using glycolic acid, as it can make the skin more sensitive to light.

Start slow: with over-the-counter products, apply three times a week for a week and then up the frequency until it can be used daily, or pause if it causes irritation. For in-office or salon peels, the amount of glycolic acid used initially will likely be smaller before higher concentrations are used.

After the first few peels, it is natural for the skin to be rough, and with repeated glycolic acid usage the texture will become smoother over time.
Topical retinoids and products that exfoliate quickly should not be used with glycolic acid, and be sure to get the approval of a dermatologist before using glycolic acid products or undergoing a peel.

Additional Resources

1. https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/do-retinoids-really-reduce-wrinkles
2. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10379810/
3. https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/how-does-retinol-work
4. healthline.com/health/azelaic-acid-acne
5. https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-1685/glycolic-acid#:~:text=Glycolic%20acid%20is%20a%20type,layers%20of%20dead%20skin%20cells.

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